Out on bikes, following what used to be years ago an old railroad route and is now a segment of "Voie Verte" or green path, here is some of what we came upon one day.

We wondered: is it a beautiful old outdoor bread oven? And the abandoned chateau, why is it left to decay? In France the past is with you wherever you turn.

Did you know there are almost 37,500 miles of walking trails in France? Even in our tiny hamlet there were numerous signposts of trails, one just steps away from our house. We had a map of trails and cyling paths in our vicinity and set out to discover the "backcountry." You have to be prepared to get lost but not to panic, there is usually some knowledgeable farmer around who will point the way!

More La Boudonniere, jolie village

I gave up my 4 month-old vegan diet as soon as I got to France.

La Boudonniere is deep rural France...the windmill is around 400 years old and on Sundays they grind local wheat into flour. The local bakery makes a special round loaf using this flour and there is nothing better than a slice spread with Breton butter made with Breton salt flakes.

In the Loire valley

Here is the tiny village in France we stayed in for two weeks, La Bourdonniere. The closest train station is Ancenis

and from there the train took about 12 minutes to the city of Nantes. It is very hard to see but in the first photo there is a horse-drawn buggy at the end of the street!

winter vegies

Today was our first delivery of organic produce, fresh from the farm. I signed up for weekly deliveries from Full Belly Farm. The produce varies each week, depending on what's in season. Right now the two celery roots are simmering away on the stove--they are delicious in salads. The daikon radishes are the only item in today's box I've never eaten. It's exciting to try new vegetables, and to be surprised at what is inside the box!

adding some color

Here's a new pillow, called the Labyrinth Persimmon Pillow from Dwell Studio These colors that I've been adding-- in the pendant, the tablecloth, and now pillow--are warming up winter. This morning it was in the 20s, the leaves and blooms are gone from the garden so give me color!

a new year, a new light

We got rid of the old track lights above the dining table and now have this beautiful pendant (a quality-control reject from Madeline Weinrib). I made the tablecloth yesterday from Serena & Lily fabric that was slashed 75% at their year-end sale. Am loving the bright colors!

japanese tape

When I couldn't find my tape dispenser I decided to wrap presents using these fun rolls. A local shop, Once Around, has a big glass jar of different ones and unlike some places you can buy them by the each instead of a packaged group.

Swedish smorgasbord

We always have Swedish food for Christmas Eve dinner. Here is this year's homemade picked herring. Traditionally the meal starts with a small plate of this fish eaten with knackebrod, which is a rye-crisp type of cracker. Then, using a fresh plate, help yourself to the meatballs, ham, boiled potatoes, gravlax, cheeses, pickled red cabbage and green salad. Often it takes a few visits to the table to try everything. Smorgasbord is wonderful and allows everyone to please themselves (it's OK to pass up the pickled herring but hopefully everyone will have at least a little taste).

cardamom coffee braid - vetebrod

Now's the time for this Swedish treat. We love this bread in our house, in fact I use 3 times the amount of cardamom called for in the recipe. On Christmas morning we spread slices with lots of butter and have it with hot coffee while we open presents. For the second batch I plan to shape the dough into Lucia Buns, small spirals and figure eights.

paperwhites at christmas

These will be all finished by next weekend. But I have some more at early stages of sprouting so maybe they will be flowering. It's tricky, trying to time blooms.

last leaves

Our cat Min enjoyed a sunny spot on a blanket of leaves. Soon after rain was due so I swept them away.

made in Sweden

I found the candelabra on ebay and then bought white candles from Denmark that will fit as standard tapers are too fat. I love the charming hand painted wood, so very Swedish!

Here is hoping that the paperwhites I am forcing will be in full bloom for Christmas. I scouted thrift stores for clear glass cylinders so the cool-looking roots will be visible. The local nursery has a bulbs half price so today I bought some hyacinths to force. I have been inspired by the gorgeous seasonal flowers, bulbs and wreaths at the Swedish blog liljorochtulpaner Can't read a word of it but can't get enough of the photos.

livingroom, newly painted

Weekends are when I get stuff done, so it's taken forever to paint the livingroom. But finally it's done, the ladder and dropclothes are no longer in the middle of the room. I am really happy with the result. Benjamin Moore "Pale Pewter" is the color and it is very Nordic cool and calm and I think looks good with the trim color, "White Dove" (my favorite white.) The curtain rods are up but I haven't decided what to do about curtains--I kind of don't want to cover the beautiful 1930s window trim.

#occupy wall street

There was an Occupy Wall Street demonstration today neaby and a few hundred people were there with all kinds of wonderful homemade signs. Lots of people drove by, laying on their horns, giving thumbs up, waving in support. Who knows, maybe they will be out there with signs next time. I sure hope so.

apple time

A library friend gave me a big bag of Rhode Island Greening apples from her tree. I've made apple crostata, a recipe from Barefoot Contessa. I like how you just heap the sliced apples onto the dough, toss on the crumb topping and fold up the edge. No pan to fit the dough into, no pre-baking, just easy and delicious.

Rosendals Tradgard in September

The Swedes love their gardens--a little wild, thank you--and these pictures from Rosendals in Stockholm show that a gorgeous harvest time, before the first frost. Stockholm can have snow in October!

Here in Northern California the days start out cool then get warm. The sky is cloudless, the afternoon shadows long and light that tints everything honey color.

an apple, water, flour

Those are the ingredients in the French country bread I made. It took a week from the time I chopped up the apple and added water (which after a few days began to ferment) and eventually, when flour was added, produced the yeasty basis for the bread.
I am still amazed at this process and the successful result I had! I heap credit on William Alexander's book 52 Loaves which inspired me with his year-long quest to reproduce a peasant bread he had tasted years earlier and couldn't get out of his mind. It's a wonderful, often funny journey that takes him to France and on visits to food scientists and flour producers as he develops his recipe.

The bottom photo shows the container of "levain" or starter which stays in the refrigerator, ready for making the next loaf.